June 21, 2021


The fine art of fashion

Fresh and gentle Austrian wines from the exceptional 2019 vintage | Wine

Diwald Chagrü, Wagram, Austria 2019 (£16.40, The Good Spirits Co) There is been a great deal of buzz all-around the good quality of the 2019 vintage in Austria. That it would change out great would seem to have been written in the stars: a long time ending in 9 constantly perform very well for Austrian winemakers, with 2009, 1999 and, heading further back again, 1979, all remembered as some of the very best, featuring wines that are both of those promptly interesting and able of ageing. I’m wary of generalisations about vintages. There are generally exceptions: lousy producers can make lousy wines in ‘good’ a long time, and vice versa. But the Austrian 2019s I’ve tasted so far do appear notably vivacious, with youthful winemaker Martin Diwald’s mix of chardonnay, the neighborhood favorite grüner veltliner and pinot blanc a correctly weighted, fantastically plump and fresh husband or wife for spicy food stuff.

Weingut Rabl Grüner Veltliner, Käferberg Reserve, Austria 2018 (£20.95, Strictly Wine) Grüner veltliner, a variety still exceptional outside its central European home, is behind some of the best white wines in Austria. You can come across it manufactured in a citrussy style with a contact of apple and a whisper of pepper in the uncomplicated-drinkers built by Markus Huber for Sainsbury’s Flavor the Big difference (£8) and Morrisons’ The Ideal (£8.25) possess-labels (both 2018 vintage). Or it can be produced into a thing much more opulent, comprehensive-flavoured and wealthy, but continue to dry and with a freshening trickle of acidity, as in Weingut Rabl’s tropically scented joy. But Austria is similarly adept with riesling. The various 2019 offerings from producers these types of as Pichler, Prager and Emmerich Knoll all really worth wanting out for, and Loimer Lagenolis Kamptal Riesling 2019 (£16.35, vinvm.co.united kingdom) a pristine gem.

Ecker Eckhof Zweigelt Good, Wagram, Austria 2019 (£13.50, Reserve Wines) Nevertheless greatest recognised for its whites, Austria’s reds are no fewer diverse – and they thrived in 2019, far too. I’m a huge supporter of the cherry-fruited stylings of the nearby zweigelt assortment, which is in vivid outcome in Ecker Eckhof’s edition, which has a Beaujolais-esque joie de vivre that normally takes well to serving a very little cooler than you may well commonly provide your reds. In similarly thirst-quenching design, but from the other of Austria’s standout indigenous types, blaufränkisch, Judith Beck Blaufränkisch, Burgenland 2019 (£15.95, buonvino.co.british isles) is irresistibly moreish. And you get a a bit darker forged of fruit (blackberry), but even now with that just-picked high quality put together with racy freshness and a hint of the savoury, in Markus Altenburger Blaufränkisch vom Kalk, Burgenland 2018 (£18.50, thegoodwineshop.co.united kingdom).

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